A dip in the consumption of guacamole may occur this summer. No, the green concoction isn’t becoming less popular, but the basic ingredient to make it, avocados, may become harder to come by. The US just banned the importation of avocados from the biggest growing region in Mexico. Worried about the safety of USDA inspectors due to drug cartel activity, the US said no no to avocados from Mexico.
What’s An Avocado?
An avocado is a green, pear-shaped fruit. Botanists classify it as a big berry with a single large seed, which is commonly known as a pit. Avocados are also known as an alligator pear or avocado pear, emphasizing their status as a fruit. (Believe me, having sampled alligator meat, an alligator pear is the only alligator I’d eat.)
Avocados grow on evergreen trees which are native to the Americas. Believed to have been domesticated over 5,000 years ago, they’ve long been highly desired for their large, oily fruit. Today, avocados form the basis of the popular dip, guacamole. Developed in Mexico, guacamole was first referenced in print in a 1697 book by privateer William Dampier who’d visited Central American on one of his journeys. (Apparently he had time to write when not plundering.)
Where Avocados Are Grown
Tropical and Mediterranean climates offer good growing conditions for avocados. In the US, California supplies most of the fruit grown in the country. The avocado is even the state fruit of California. Nevertheless, the Golden State provides only about 10% of the avocados consumed here. I’m no crack mathematician, but I know this percentage leaves 90% of the avocados Americans eat coming from other sources.
So, where do most of our avocados come from? Mexico is the leading producer of avocados in the world, providing almost 30% of the world supply. Other leading producers are Colombia, the Dominican Republic, and Peru. Of the avocados Mexico exports, 76% go north to the US. In 2023, the US imported 2.78 billion (that’s billion with a “b”) pounds of avocados. Of that amount, 89% came from Mexico. Bottom line? Without Mexican avocados, guac and avocado toast may be, well, toast in the US.
Trouble In Michoacán
Located in western Mexico, the Mexican state of Michoacán produces more avocados than any other Mexican state, contributing 80% of Mexico’s avocado output. In fact, it’s the largest producer of avocados in the world. With 135 miles of coast on the Pacific Ocean and a thriving agricultural industry, Michoacán seems like it would be paradise. Unfortunately, it is a hotbed of drug cartel activity and thus violence-plagued.
The multibillion dollar avocado industry is a prime target for drug cartels. The locals call the produce “green gold” as a nod to the monetary value of the fruit. Reports indicate more than a dozen criminal groups are fighting for control over the avocado business. The cartels extort protection fees from the growers.
Inspector Incident
The US Department of Agriculture (“USDA”) has inspector boots on the ground in Michoacán to review the safety of avocado shipments. Last Friday a vehicle in which two such inspectors were traveling encountered a protest in the Michoacán city of Paracho in support of the local police. (And don’t you know they have Excedrin headaches frequently with drug cartels trying to horn in on the business.) The inspectors’ vehicle was stopped and detained.
Due to security concerns for its employees, the USDA informed the Avocado Exporting Producers and Packers of Mexico (“APEAM”) that new shipments of avocados from Michoacán to the US were being suspended until further notice. Perhaps this economic pressure will bear fruit and allow the ban to be lifted and the fruit to flow to the US again.
Sadly, this incident isn’t the first time the US has stopped importation of avocados from this Mexican state due to security concerns. Back in December 2020, a month-long ban was placed after an armed group burned avocado shipments. (What a waste of good food!) Then in February 2022, a ban was imposed after an American plant safety inspector received a threat on his official cell phone. That ban was lifted after a week and new safety measures were adopted by the local government.
Green Light For Avocados
Hopefully, the green light will soon be given for imports of avocados from Michoacán to resume. A long delay is likely to push avocado prices higher for consumers assuming the product is even available. While the inability to enjoy guacamole with our Mexican food would be annoying, even more concerning is the apparently growing reach of drug cartels. Hopefully, their insidious activity will soon be squashed like the insides of a ripe avocado when guacamole is made.
WONDER-ing Woman:
Do you view an avocado as a fruit? If you like avocados, what’s your favorite way to eat them? Are you willing to pay more for avocados if they’re imported from countries other than Mexico? Are you surprised drug cartels are insinuating themselves into industries not related to drugs?
WONDER-ing WOMAN -- Alice H. Murray 